6g74 swap complete write up!!!

[GRN3500GT]

Alright so far the best mods for NA cars are turbos but how about those proud NA drivers who dont want boost but rather a fast 10:1 compression beast. Here is what I recommend and what I did. The 6G74 swap. First off If you want to go 74 on either of the cars na or tt the best motor is the 6G74 DOHC off a Mitsubishi Debonair. Why? because its a direct replacement with no mods required. Now what I mean by no mods is that there will be no cutting, welding, sculpting, hacking or dismissal of goodies (a/c, cruise control, etc.) involved. here is a pic of the motor I am talking about. Look familiar?



This motor will replace either na or tt directly with just a few parts that will be swapped to make the motor compatible to the set up in the car. So now for a step by step instruction on what needs to be done.

Step 1: Peripherals - to make the swap easier I would recomend taking off all the devices that are around the motor. the first one I took off was the brake fluid resevoir.
The tools you will need for this will be a 10mm line wrench and a 12mm socket with a 3 inch and 6 inch extension you might need a swivel adapter aswell to make life easier.


DONT HAVE TO DO THIS PART. Next would be the power steering pump(located in the back of the motor on the drivers side next to the headers.) You might want to take off the top intake plenum to make this an easier removal.
The tools will be a 14mm socket with a ratchet as well as a 17mm wrench or ratchet wrench. If you deside to take off the top intake plenum you will need a 12mm socket with a 3 in extension.


Now its time to remove the intake. simple enough consists of one band clamp and 4 snap on clamps on the air box. make sure to unplug the mas airflow sensor.
at this point you should take off the Throttle body on the top plenum. This has 5 bolts. they should be a 12mm or 14mm. I would recomend useing a 3 in extension to make it easier. the 1st 4 bolts are on the front of the tb the other one goes from the metal bracket that goes from the head to the plenum. THIS PART WILL BE USED ON THE NEW INTAKE PLENUM SO TAKE EXTRA CARE OF IT AND THE GASKET.



The next peripheral is radiator. probably the easiest thing to take off. unclamp the hoses from the water neck on the motor and take off the radiator support bracket, unplug the electrical plugs for the fans and it should come out like a drawer. ON THE ATX CARS YOU WILL HAVE TO UNPLUG THE TRANNY COOLER LINES. The tools should consist of a 10mm socket for the clamps and a 14mm for the support brackets.


Now you can proceed to take off the alternator. There will be 2 bolts on the side of the braket and 2 on the top of the braket. CAUTION NOT TO DAMAGE THE A/C CONDENSER (radiator looking thing)



DONT NEED TO DO THIS. YOU CAN JUST DISCONECT FROM THE MOTOR AND PUT TO THE SIDE. This next one will be a fun one and could be dangerous. MAKE SURE TO WEAR SAFTEY GLASSES. You will be removing the ac compressor. first you will need to take off the hoses now here is were it gets tricky. you will need to take a long extencion and a 12mm socket and start to unscrew the bolt to one of the lines that goes to the compressor. Do not look at it while you take it off. You will begin to here a hissing noise now be very cautious. the hose will eventually pop off and release all the gas inside but it will do it with a bang. You can always remove one of the valves where you fill the ac through but that will be the same case. next take off the second hose which will not pop off. Now you can proceed to the compressor itself. unplug the electrical plugs and remove the 4 bolts. 12mm.



Now you can direct yourself to the other side of the motor. here you will want to start removing all electrical conections. carefull not to damage any. make sure to take off all the coolant lines and vacums as well. your engine bay will look something like this.


After all peripherals are eliminatied you can continue to step 2.

Step 2. Tranny to motor bolt.

This step is simple and will involve the use of a 14mm and a 17mm Socket.

Take off all bolts bolting the tranny to the motor and then remove the bolts from the bottom of the motor to the tranny.

You will notive two skid plates that hold the motor to the tranny you will need to remove these from the motor.



gotta go will do more later. I need to get more time on my hands.lol

[Nikkizzle]

nick say your such a bad ass


nikki agrees



lolz

[aapstealth]

Keep it coming Man loving the Info

[GRN3500GT]

I will get more pics of each of the parts and I will finish it tomorrow or the next day.

[maTT]

Congrats on the swap. I agree that this is definitely the way to go!

Don't mean to pry, but there is no reason to remove the PS pump or AC compressor. Neither one of these systems should be opened. Doing the swap is just as easy with these systems in place. Plus getting air in the PS system is a PITA and also venting the freon into the atmosphere is both illegal and expensive.

[Master]

MITSUBISHI DEBONAIR Third generation

1992 Mitsubishi DebonairThe third model debuted in 1992, longer and wider than its predecessors. The wider range of available engines was now topped by a 260 PS (256 hp/191 kW) 6G74 3.5 L DOHC V6, and as Mitsubishi's domestic flagship incorporated much of the company's technology, including four-wheel steering, four-wheel anti-lock braking system, electronically controlled suspension, and INVECS automatic transmissioN WITH TRACTION CONTROL .

It was discontinued in 1999, and directly replaced by the Proudia. However, Mitsubishi also developed its first V8 engine for the new Dignity luxury car around this time, and it was this latter model which took position as the domestic flagship of the company.

just some stuff

[Shooter83]

Originally Posted by Master

and INVECS automatic transmissioN WITH TRACTION CONTROL .

6G72's in the US also got it on the 92-96 diamantes as an option. it's just a special throttle body that is controlled by the ABS computer's wheel sensors. and when the front wheels start spinning faster than the rear wheels. the ABS computer limits the throttle body.and i'm pretty sure the front brakes might also activate from the ABS pump, to stop the wheels from spinning.

[GRN3500GT]

Originally Posted by maTT

Congrats on the swap. I agree that this is definitely the way to go!

Don't mean to pry, but there is no reason to remove the PS pump or AC compressor. Neither one of these systems should be opened. Doing the swap is just as easy with these systems in place. Plus getting air in the PS system is a PITA and also venting the freon into the atmosphere is both illegal and expensive.

I know what you mean but it make moving the motor around so much easier. I will update it though and put that its optional. I thought I put that on there. you are right though that freon is illegal.

[Agent|99VR4]

Originally Posted by maTT

Congrats on the swap. I agree that this is definitely the way to go!

Don't mean to pry, but there is no reason to remove the PS pump or AC compressor. Neither one of these systems should be opened. Doing the swap is just as easy with these systems in place. Plus getting air in the PS system is a PITA and also venting the freon into the atmosphere is both illegal and expensive.

Damn, I think I have air in my PS line, as I removed the pump to assemble my engine. No matter what I do to the belts, I can hear the pump squeel when I turn the wheel from a stand still sometimes, or when I reach the max angle of deflection on the steering wheel. <--- lol does that make sense?

[enollava]

Originally Posted by Agent|99VR4

Damn, I think I have air in my PS line, as I removed the pump to assemble my engine. No matter what I do to the belts, I can hear the pump squeel when I turn the wheel from a stand still sometimes, or when I reach the max angle of deflection on the steering wheel. <--- lol does that make sense?

Are you sure the air isn't actually in your fuel lines? LOL