[Shooter83]

I greatly appreciate reputation

Shooter83's 100% Complete AWD Conversion

Z11A-FWD
Z16A-AWD with AWS
Z15A-AWD w/o AWS


Most people don't understand why you cannot simply install the Z16A (AWD) rear end in a Z11A (FWD) car; I will do my best to first explain why.

For reasons unknown, Mitsubishi decided to design and install two different rear ends for the FWD car & AWD car. Why they didn’t simply use the AWD rear end without the rear diff or c/v axles for FWD is beyond me. For whatever reason, in order for them to use different rear suspensions, they had to design different mounting methods for each rear end.

First, on the rear of the FWD cars, the rear struts are mounted closer towards the front of the car. While in AWD cars, the struts are farther back towards the rear of the car to clear the c/v axle. Because of this, our platform has two different types of inner fender wells/strut braces, one for AWD, and one for FWD. here is an animated picture I made showing the difference of the AWD and FWD car's rear inner fender wells:







Second, the FWD rear end uses trailing arm mounts that are installed on the frame rail, while the AWD cars have a mounting plate to connect the rear sub-frame. You can see this difference in post 3.








Third, the FWD cars rear end is held in by 4 studs coming out of the frame. The rear of the AWD rear end only uses two of these and they are longer and thicker then the ones used to hold in the FWD rear end. You can see this in post 4.

And finally, the FWD cars have 2 of the 4 needed studs used to hold in the drive shaft. The rearward set contains both studs, but the forward set is missing both studs in the brace. You can see the Z16A brace and Z11A brace in the 9th post.

Here are some interesting pics I took of the extracted Z16A parts for my conversion:












Now obviously nobody has to go as far as I did just to go AWD on a FWD Z11A car. My method is a 100% Z11A to Z15A chassis conversion, but 75% of what i did is not required to simply install the Z15/6A AWD rear end to a Z11A chassis. If you have the money, or can save up for an AWD car, do it! I went this far with my conversion because of that fact that an AWD R/T TT or VR4 was financially out of the question for me, so i went all out to have as close to the real thing. Plus, I knew I could trade my skill and time to make myself an AWD converted car that offers the perfect fitment of a factory AWD car.

All of the drive train parts were given to me by my good friend AndrewBox who wreaked his 94 VR4 back in early 2005. So for me, the stars aligned perfectly for me to do this. The best bonus is the fact that my Stealth ES is the same car that my mother brought home in 1994 when I was 11, the very FIRST 3S I ever laid my eyes on. For my conversion, going all the way with it was a must, because I wanted it to look like Mitsubishi made a mistake in the Nagoya plant back in the first week of October 1990, when they switched the assembly line from AWD to FWD production, and accidentally slipped out one AWD Stealth ES!

I did this conversion using no modifications or fabrication at all. I used all factory Z16A parts from a parted out AWD shell that I bought for $100 from Mike91TT. My original intent for the AWD shell was to swap my ES over to it. Unfortunately because of the high amount of internal rusting and rot I later found in it, I could not justify building my car on to it. The rust growing inside the unibody would have certainly become a serious safety issue in the years to come. That’s when the AWD shell became the organ donor, and my ES became the patient. As the years go on, the numbers for the AWD cars for our platform decreases from accidents, rust, part outs, etc. I gave us back one more by removing and saving every one of the precious and unique Z16A AWD frame parts, and installing them on to my car.

This was a tremendous amount of work! But I can say now that it's complete, it definitely out weighs the price of a factory AWD car. Because I did the *body conversion* for around $200. What really sets my conversion apart from every other AWD conversion, is the fact that my rear struts do not sit at an *extreme angle* that requires use of a rubber bushing. The struts sit just as Mitsubishi intended for AWD cars. And oh yeah, the insurance savings for having an ES is great!


Here’s the original thread on Florida3S.com, which followed my conversion in chronological order: My AWD Conversion - Florida's Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Community!

[Shooter83]

I started by dropping down the Z11A rear suspension. And removing the rear seat belt shelf, strut brace and inner-fender wells by drilling the spot welds that hold them in.

[Shooter83]

Next I removed the factory Z11A trailing arm bracket.

I modified this pic from Barefoot (with permission), because I forgot to take a picture of mine trailing arm mounts before I started cutting.









The Z16A AWD mounts fit perfectly in place

[Shooter83]

I was too excited to call it quits after getting the bottom mounts in. so I decided to go back out and figure out what to do with the issue of the rear studs on my FWD car, that are too short for the AWD sub-frame.

In this first picture, you'll see the two studs coming out of the frame. One stud is X'ed out because it will no longer be used. It’s only for the FWD rear end. it could stay there as it doesn't bother anything, but I will cut it off because I do not want ANY trace that my car was ever FWD anyway the green stud is what we'll be paying attention too.




Here is how I accessed the stud with the green arrow; I cut a "U" shape with a cutting wheel, and bent back the metal to make a door.




A better view at the top of the stud and how it’s held in to the frame.




Here you can see the difference between the FWD stud, AWD stud, and their sleeves. I still need to enlarge the hole in my frame a bit so the AWD stud can fit though.

[Shooter83]

Inner panels welded in!

[Shooter83]

Next I sealed the inner fender seams with 3M seam sealer, and gave a nice first coat of under body spray to the fender wells:

[Shooter83]

Here’s the last part I needed to remove from my car to complete my conversion. As I mentioned in the first post, the Z11A FWD cars have two of the four studs needed to secure the drive-shaft in place. You can see what I mean in the pics. The last 2 pics are after welding, and undercoating.

[Shooter83]

It's on the ground sitting on it's own weight!

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!


All wheel steering delete, and the reassembled rear suspension.





Horrendous wheel gap with the unsettled Tein S-Techs + very light car.






AWD ES FTMFW! I wish i didn't have to put the fuel tank back in, seeing that rear diff makes me happy

[Shooter83]

Installed a freeze plug in the rear diff to block off the all wheel steering pump gear hole and complete the AWS delete. Also put the six speed back together. And surprisingly, I got it in the car easily with my girlfriends help. I then seam sealed the inside of the inner fender wells, welded the in the larger sleeves/studs for the AWD rear sub-frame. And folded down the doors I cut to access them. Then I welded in the strut braces, and the rear speaker/seatbelt/seat bracket. I only have pics of the strut braces though, because I forgot to snap a pic of the seat brackets before I installed the rear interior. I’ll get a pic next time I can though.

It's Done!

[Shooter83]

my car has come a long way since this thread: the junk yard fighter - Florida's Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Community!

and here is my first launch (and i still don't have traction, when its wet out lol)
YouTube - AWD Dodge Stealth ES